Natural Dyeing: Fresh & Wooden Eggs

Springtime brings a little bit of magic in every day - an awakening from a long winter sleep. The ground swells as the buds do too, flowers bursting up from the thawing earth; colors painting the landscape that has been neutral for months.

Celebrating the return of Spring

The celebration of spring takes many forms. One such celebration is Ostara, the pagan celebration of the vernal equinox that has many parallels to the contemporary Easter traditions that many have come to know. The vernal equinox falls somewhere between March 19th and March 23rd depending on the year, when the Sun is exactly above the Equator and day and night are equal in length. The name Ostara is thought to have been derived from the spring goddess named Ēostre, who brings renewal and rebirth after the cold and harsh winter. Amongst the symbols of fertility and rebirth, it is no wonder that the egg has long been used, as it quite literally brings forth new life in the early spring days. On our homestead, we welcome the sounds of baby birds hatching in nests throughout the treed landscape and on homesteads across the country, homesteaders are eager to welcome new baby chicks to their flocks of chickens, ducks and more. It is thought that the Easter basket was inspired by the bird nests - the perfect pair for spring!

When creating decorations in our home, I often find inspiration from the natural world around us. The materials that surround us, both outside and in our homes are full of textures and colors that are impossible to replicate synthetically. Even better, is when a decoration can be reused or composted when we’re done displaying it; it’s the ultimate love note to our natural world when we can enjoy the beauty of nature and respect it throughout, by creating little or no waste. That’s what I love so much about this simple natural dye project for decorating eggs! This method can be used for both fresh eggs and wooden eggs, though there are a few variations that work better than others for the wooden eggs - which we’ll share in further detail below. All of the scraps from the dyeing process can be composted when complete, and if you’re using wooden eggs, they can be enjoyed for many years to come!

Preparing the eggs

While there is very little that needs to be done to prepare wooden eggs, when using fresh hen eggs there are a few more steps to ensure successful dyeing. You can use either white or brown (or any color, really) eggs, though the base color will affect the final color of your dyed eggs.

• Choose eggs that are at least 1 week “old” as they will be easier to peel in the long run! This is especially relevant if you’re sourcing your eggs locally, as they tend to be much fresher than store-bought eggs.

• For fresh eggs, wash the exterior of the egg with a gentle cloth to remove the natural barrier that exists on the eggshell, which will allow the pigments to better adhere to the eggs.

Clockwise from top left: Red cabbage, yellow onion peel, turmeric, black beans, un-dyed natural egg. All eggs shown have been sealed with our Beeswax Cutting Board Conditioner - available in our shop!

Extracting colors from nature

We can extract a wide range of colors from ingredients that are found in our kitchens! It’s a great way to use up scraps and is especially fun for our youngest helpers. My daughter couldn’t believe her eyes when I pulled a wooden egg from a bath of black bean water and it was purple! Here are some of our favorite colors to use for fresh and wooden hen eggs.

For Fresh Eggs: Place eggs in a small sauce pan and cover with 1 quart of water, 1 tablespoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, and 2-4 tablespoons of the respective fruit, vegetable, or spice (to create the color). Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and cover for 30 minutes. For a deeper color, leave eggs in dye bath and allow to set for 30 minutes or more. Remove and allow to dry - we use our empty egg carton as a perfect drying rack!

For Wooden Eggs: Place 1 quart of water and 2-4 tablespoons of the respective fruit, vegetable, or spice (to create the color) in a small sauce pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and cover for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and strain liquid into a heat-proof jar, reserving the plant materials. Because wood floats in water, use either the food scraps from making the dye bath to keep the egg submerged or allow the egg to float and simply rotate the egg periodically until the desired color is achieved. After soaking in the dye pigment, allow wooden eggs to dry slowly to avoid cracking; We used our egg carton as a drying rack and put them in a spot out of direct heat or air flow, and they took about 2 days (with periodic rotating) to dry completely. Note: the color will lighten as it dries, but can be made more vivid by using a mineral oil or a cutting-board wax on the wood once it’s dried!

Now for the fun part:

Reds - Red or purple onion skins make a beautiful red dye pigment.

Orange - Yellow onion skins yield a bright golden orange color.

Yellows & Gold - Turmeric! The easiest dye of all for eggs - and a little goes a long ways.

Greens - This is arguably the hardest color we tried to achieve. While many sources suggest parsley or spinach for dyeing green eggs, we didn’t have any success. I would instead recommend a double-dye starting with turmeric and followed by the red cabbage dye bath below (without vinegar).

Blues & Purples - Red cabbage can be used to create a range of blues and purples. Without vinegar, the color is more blueish purple. With vinegar added, a bright fuchsia! For wooden eggs, black beans can be used to create a nice blueish purple too - simply soak a handful of beans in a pint of water over night, then place your wooden egg in the dye bath and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes.

Share the love!

If you’re on social media, be sure to tag your photos with #MyPerennialHomestead - we would love to see what colors you create. Want to learn more about natural egg dyeing? Join us on Saturday, March 13th, 2021 with Lesley Darling Fibers for a virtual workshop on natural egg dyeing! The workshop will also be recorded and shared after - to register, visit: https://lesleydarling.bigcartel.com/easter-egg-dyeing-workshop

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Harvesting Sap: A Primer to Tapping Trees for Syrup Making

Updated February 2023

Harvesting sap for syrup making has become one of our favorite harvest activities of the year! The sap moon, typically the full moon in late February or early March, marks the beginning of the flow of sap. The flow of sap in trees is a simple miracle, one of abundance in a time of hibernation. When all the world seems to be asleep blanketed under a layer of snow, the sweet flow of sap begins in the trees around us. Of course, you cannot see it when you simply look with your eyes, but as you feel the warming of days contrasting with the freezing temperatures of the cold dark night, you can feel the changing of seasons present in the air and with it comes the sap flow; the sweetness an indicator of the sweetness to come as spring approaches. 

Practicing gratitude and mindfulness in the harvest

We owe our knowledge of sugaring to our Indigenous brothers and sisters, who have harvested the sap flow for generations, returning gratitude to the trees and the land through stewardship and care. In her essay titled “Maple Sugar Moon” in Braiding Sweetgrass, Robin Wall Kimmerer shares the story of the Anishinaabe Original Man, Nanabozho, as he finds his people lying lazily beneath a maple tree, with their mouths open catching the falling syrup from the trees. “They had become lazy and took for granted the gifts of the Creator” … so he “went to the river and dipped up many buckets of water. He poured the water straight into the maple trees to dilute the syrup. … Today, maple sap flows like a stream of water with only a trace of sweetness to remind the people of both possibility and responsibility. And so it is that it takes forty gallons of sap to make a gallon of syrup.” (Braiding Sweetgrass, Robin Wall Kimmerer, page 63).

To harvest sap from a tree is a great responsibility and ought not be taken lightly. Harvest only from trees that are large enough to support themselves and you as well - with a diameter of at least 10” and in good health. Trees with diameters over 18″ can accommodate two taps, while those with diameters over 25″ can accommodate three. Throughout the rest of the year, offer gifts in return - spread compost at the base, care for the health of the tree, say thank you and reflect on the many gifts the trees offer us throughout the year: shade, oxygen and shelter. 

Tapping a line of Black Walnut trees along the edge of our neighbor’s homestead

Materials needed

• Power Drill

• Sharp drill bits, sizes to correspond with chosen spout size and dropline size

• Hammer

• Spout or Spile, 1-3 per tree depending on tree size
  The spouts, also called spiles, are used to tap into a hole in the tree and allow the sap to flow out of the tree and into a collection container. There are various sizes available on the market, and spiles can be either plastic or metal.  (Here is the one we use)

• Droplines, 1 per spout
  Droplines are plastic tubing that is used to connect the spile to the collection vessel. Some spiles don’t require droplines, but many do.  (Here is what we use)

• Collection container with lid (at least 1 gallon capacity), 1 per tree
  You can use any variety of collection containers, though we recommend using something that is easily cleanable and has a secure lid to keep out rain, snow and debris. We use 5 gallon food-grade buckets with lids. You can also use cleaned and empty milk jugs or any other food-grade container. 

• Filters
  Filtering your sap before and after cooking helps to remove any debris and sediment that collects in the sap, resulting in a cleaner finished syrup (Here is what we use) 

• Heavy-bottom Pot

• Candy Thermometer

Preparing your materials

Clean all of your tapping materials with hot water, boiling to sterilize. Avoid the use of soap, as it is hard to remove all the residue and can affect the final taste of your syrup. 

Assemble the spouts with droplines by connecting droplines to the down-spout of the spile. Using a drill bit that corresponds with the diameter of the dropline, drill holes around the top edge of the container. Insert the droplines into the holes, with the appropriate number of droplines per the size of the tree. 

Tree Selection

While the Sugar Maple is the most commonly tapped tree for making syrup, there are many types of trees that produce a sap flow with a sugary sap that can be cooked into syrup. In our experience, we have tapped primarily Black Walnut trees, which grow in abundance near our homestead. Other trees that produce sap include: Silver maples, Boxelder and Birch trees to name a few. Here is a great resource that explores the differences of these different trees (and more!) for syrup production: 27 Trees to Tap for Syrup. Each variety of tree will yield a slightly different flavor of syrup. Of course, you can combine the saps of many types of trees, but it may also be fun to keep them separate to taste the variances!

Identify your tree and inspect it for good health. Avoid harvesting from a tree that has signs of damage, such as splitting or bark peeling, as this will not only produce a lower yield but may also further damage the health of the tree. 

A sample of our set-up: holes drilled on the east, south and west side of a black walnut tree, into the ridges of the bark, spiles tapped into the tree with downspouts emptying into a 5 gallon bucket with a lid.

Drilling a hole

Identify the south-side of the tree - you will place your holes about 18” apart on the East, South and West sides of the tree, as these sides will be warmed by the sun and produce the best flow of sap. Only tap trees with a diameter of at least 10” and in good health. Trees with diameters over 18″ can accommodate two taps, while those with diameters over 25″ can accommodate three. 

Using a power drill and a sharp bit (very important that it’s sharp, so the hole is smooth and clean) that corresponds with your chosen spout, bore a deep hole in a tree to a depth of 2” to 2 ½” or until you reach the lighter inner sapwood of the tree. Blow out any wood shavings or pulp with a quick, close breath. For reference, you can wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit 2 ½” from the tip to use as a guide. Drill at a slight upward angle to promote a downward flow of sap from the hole. The hole should be situated at a comfortable working height, approximately 2′ to 4′ above the ground. If you tap the same tree each year, drill holes at least 6” apart from previous holes to allow the tree to recover from the holes and remain healthy.

Tapping the Tree

Place the pointed end of the spile (another name for the spout) in the hole and gently hammer into place, with the droplines pointing towards the ground and the collection container resting on the ground at the base of the tree. Collect the sap daily by pouring it into a collection bucket or replacing the current collection container with an empty one. Refrigerate the sap in a large covered container until you’re ready to boil it down. Filter your sap through a filter or two layers of cheesecloth before boiling to remove any debris or sediment.

Boiling the sap

Bring the sap to a boil in a large heavy bottom pot over high heat. Then, reduce heat to medium high and maintain a low boil. Using a pan with a larger surface area will help the cooking process to progress quicker, as the steam can cook off more quickly. It is best to start with at least a gallon of sap to prevent the final syrup from scorching on the bottom of the pan. As the water boils off, you can add more sap.

The temperature of the sap will indicate the sugar concentration. Using a candy thermometer is a great way to measure the sugar concentration. At 215 degrees F, pour your syrup through a filter to remove excess minerals before cooking to the final temperature between 217 and 219 degrees F. This is also a good time to transfer the syrup to a smaller pot to finish the cooking process so the syrup doesn’t scorch on the bottom of the pan. The syrup is finished when it reaches the optimal temperature between 217 and 219 degrees F - the higher the temperature, the thicker the finished syrup will be. If you don’t have a thermometer, you can also use a clean spoon to do a “drip test” - dip your spoon into the thickened syrup and stop cooking when the syrup drips off the spoon in a thick drip. Note that the syrup will thicken as it cools. 

One gallon of sugar maple sap cooks into approximately 4 ounces of syrup. Other tree saps tend to have a lower sugar concentration, though final yields depend on the time of harvest, the location of the tree, tree species and other environmental factors. For example, trees that are higher on a slope or hill will tend to have a higher sugar concentration while trees at the bottom of a slope or hill will tend to have a lower sugar concentration, as they are subject to more water flow as snow melts and flows in the ground. There are many factors that can affect the final yield, and really, only time and experience will tell! 

Bottling the syrup

Using a metal funnel lined with a clean filter, pour the hot syrup into clean glass bottles, and cap them. To prevent the bottles from cracking, warm them by filling with hot water and pouring it out right before filling with syrup. To bottle for shelf-stability, fill with hot syrup (at least 214 degrees F), cap with a clean, solid lid (i.e. not a pour top) and invert the bottle until it’s cooled. Bottled this way, unopened bottles should remain shelf-stable for two years. After opening, store syrup in the fridge for up to a year. Some minerals and sediment may settle to the bottom of your finished syrup - it’s still edible, just slightly different texture and flavor! If you choose to bottle at a cooler temperature or into a container that you’re not able to invert, just store your syrup in the fridge to prevent spoilage.

End of season considerations

After the harvest season, typically when the temperatures no longer fall below freezing, it is important to clean up your materials and tend to the trees. Remove all taps from the trees and gather the materials you’ve used. Clean and sterilize all of your spiles and downspout tubes and allow to dry completely before storing. Do not plug the holes you’ve drilled in the trees - instead, allow the tree to recover on it’s own.

Think of reciprocity - how will you show your gratitude to the trees and their generosity? Will you plant more trees in your community? Offer compost to the trees who have shared their abundance? Or perhaps you will say “thank you” as you crack open a bottle of liquid gold and pour it a top a tall stack of pancakes on a cozy weekend morning. There are endless ways to share your gratitude as you enjoy the golden syrup of these crisp winter days throughout the year!

Planting Garlic

Scotty and I have been growing our own garlic together for over six years together and it’s truthfully one of our favorite things to grow. Not only is it super simple to grow, the flavors and varieties available with homegrown garlic are outstanding compared to store-bought alternatives. We’ve been growing a hard-neck variety for the past six years and this year are adding a soft-neck variety. Once you’ve grown your own, you can save your own seed for the following seasons, making it a very affordable crop to grow as well!

Here’s a primer in planting your own garlic:

Follow us step-by-step as we plant our fall crop of garlic for spring harvest!

When to Plant

Planting garlic depends on your what hardiness zone you’re in. We’re located in Omaha, Nebraska which is USDA zone 5b. To find your zone, visit the USDA Plant Hardiness Map here! Hardiness zones are based on first and last frost date averages. In our zone, we plant our garlic around the time of the last frost date (average of October 15th) and before the ground is frozen. There is some flexibility in the planting time, and we’ve planted as late as the weekend before Thanksgiving!

Choosing a Variety

There are many varieties of garlic - but they are broadly categorized into two types: Soft-neck and Hard-neck.

Soft-neck Garlic

There are two main categories of soft-neck garlics: artichoke and silverskin. Soft-neck varieties are the most common varieties found in grocery stores and at farmers markets as they have a longer storage life and tend to have a milder flavor than most hard-neck varieties. They tend to have more cloves of smaller size, making them a little more difficult for peeling. Soft-neck varieties are most commonly used for making garlic braids!

Hard-neck Garlic

Hard-neck varieties are split into three main categories: rocambole, continental and Asiatic. Rocambole is most popular in this category, producing fairly symmetrical heads of garlic. Hard-neck varieties also produce garlic scapes in the spring, which can also be harvested and eaten! Scapes are an upright shoot that grows from the center of the plant and is often removed in the spring to promote larger growth in the garlic cloves.

Seed Garlic Sources

Often, you’ll have to order your seed garlic in mid- to late-summer. Some sources may be out of stock when it’s time to plant, so in that case, contact your local farmers to see if they have any extra seed. Unless you’re growing a huge amount, this can be a great way to get seed garlic, since often times they’ll have smaller quantities. Avoid planting garlic from the grocery store, as it is often treated for shelf stability and this may affect its viability.

• Grade A Gardens - Organically grown in Johnson, Iowa

• Filaree Garlic Farm - Organically grown in Omak, Washington - one of the premier garlic farms in the country!

• Hudson Valley Seed Company - Grown in Hudson Valley, New York

Planting Garlic

Preparing your Garden Bed

Prepare your garden bed by cultivating the soil so you can easily plant the cloves 3” deep. Add about 1” of compost to the top of the bed and smooth with the back of a rake.

Mark your rows about 10-12” apart. We plant three rows per bed, so that we can easily reach the center row for weeding in the spring.

Preparing your Cloves

Each clove of garlic will produce its own garlic plant and subsequently its own head of garlic! A garlic clove is a plant, not a seed, so orientation of the clove is important for planting - you will plant each clove with the “stem-base” down, as this is where the clove will grow roots in the spring and from it will grow leaves upright.

To separate your cloves from the head of seed garlic, use your thumb to gently brush off the outer layers of skin to reveal the inner cloves. Then, using gentle pressure, “pop” off the cloves. You want to be careful not to damage the cloves, as this can promote disease. Handle cloves like eggshells, not tennis balls! Additionally, you’ll want to plant the cloves within 48 hours of removing them from the head of garlic, so don’t pop them off before you’re ready to plant. Cloves will begin to dehydrate after they have been removed and this will affect the strength of the cloves to grow into a healthy bulb in the spring!

Select medium to large cloves that are undamaged, setting aside damaged or small cloves for eating later.

Planting your Cloves

Plant each clove with the stem-base down about 3” into the soil. Plant cloves 6-8” apart in each row, with rows about 10-12” apart. Once all of your cloves are planted, cover gently with soil. Finish by covering with a light layer of mulch about 1” thick. We use fresh straw or fallen leaves to cover ours!

Further Reading

• Growing Great Garlic, by Ron L. England, Filaree Productions